A harmadik út

Vámbéry nyomában

4th May - 25th August 2013.

14 countries, 7700km

2 wheels

Visas

The most difficult part of the journey to Central Asia is the fight against bureaucratic system of the embassies. Some travelers say that the success of a journey is not only up to the physical fitness, but the mental preparedness before the trip.

As a Slovak citizen I had to apply all of my visas in Vienna except for Chinese visa. The fare costs a lot. In order to reduce these expenses I travelled to Bratislava by train, from there I went on the bike to Vienna. This means 200km travel by train and 150km ride by bike, occasionally.  Many times made me sad, when I was boot out in two minutes, because I some documents lacked for the successful visa application. If I had not been grim determined, I would given up my plans after the fifth visit in Vienna. Now let us review the visas one after the other.

Moldova – the first non-EU country on my way - no visa required

Ukraine - no visa required

Georgia - no visa required

Azerbaijan – to get the visa man need a Letter of Invitation (LOI). Local people are reluctant to write it, because from that point the writer is responsible for the invited guest and in any trouble he can get a fine, too. You can get a 3-5 days length transit visa, if you have the visa from the neighboring country (Iran). 5 days would have been enough for me, but it could not be guaranteed. Therefore, I decided I won’t make my job more difficult, I changed my route.

Armenia - Since this year we don’t require visa to get to Armenia, I decided I will enter from Armenia into Iran intsead of Azerbaijan.

Iran –Since 2005 the situation has changed a lot. At that time, two visits in Budapest was enough to wrap it up. Unfortunately, now in Budapest they could not help, and the consul from Vienna didn’t talk with me, without LOI and travel insurance. I got the LOI through a travel agency in Tehran for 45€. As I have to begin the 30-days long stay in Iran in 90 days after I get the visa, it was unnecessary to act prematurely as well. Later I faced the next problem. The rules were changed because of the elections in Iran in June. In this period the 90 days shortened to 30 days. It is a problem for me, because so I have to hurry up to get to Iran within 30 days after my launch. Moreover I have to lengthen the visa, because my visa from the next country is valid only from 1st July. The point is that I get the visa in my passport a day before I started the journey - another 52€.

Turkmenistan – Tourist visa can be obtained only if  man buy a complete turist program from a local travel agency with accommodation and guiding for a lots of money. That’s not in my line. The only solution is the 5-days lengh transit visa for 39€.  During this time I have to cycle through the 450km length desert. To get the visa I had to submit a copy of the paper of my bike frame number as well.

Uzbekistan - the story is similar to the previous two countries procedure. I need LOI, which I can buy only from Uzbek travel agency if I buy a program. But then I found an office on the net that issue valid hotel reservation and LOI for a little fee (31€). I asked the Uzbek visa in Vienna with these documents. I got it for 74€. I had to copy all pages of my passport for the visa.

 

Tajikistan - the consul was a very nice young man. I got all necessary permits in my passport in a week as I submitted the certificate from my employer and paid the 100€. I got my BGAO license, too which is essential to enter to the Pamir Mountains.
 

Kyrgyzstan - no visa required from 2012

China -  This is the country where you mustn’t mention that you want to enter by bike. You just have to ask a tourist visa to a Beijing trip. I paid for the visa 41€ and I got it in the next week.

 

Pakistan -  need flight ticket and  hotel reservation . The embassy refused to issue a visa valied for 6 month. That’s why I had to request a second passport and at the end of May my wife, Ági will visit the Pakistani Embassy again and request the visa, and she will send it after me to the capital of Tajikistan, Dushanbe.

If you have read the whole torment, you can understand that the most troublesome and time consuming was during the preparations to get all the visas required for the trip. The hardest part was that it was nowhere write. I browsed the internet and collected my own experiences untill I got to the end of this story.